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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion?  (Read 53927 times)
northfiero
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« Reply #255 on: May 12, 2005, 10:15:24 pm »

No , it's 255GPH pump as listed by Walbro on their site and used by many!

You have a part number?  Because a 255gph pump would support 2500hp+

I did a search on google for "walbro fuel pump 255", and everywhere it's listed it shows lph.
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Shaun41178
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« Reply #256 on: May 12, 2005, 10:58:19 pm »

Jon meant LPH.

he is a dumbass like that    Afro
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Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #257 on: May 18, 2005, 07:30:50 pm »

No , it's 255GPH pump as listed by Walbro on their site and used by many!

You have a part number?† Because a 255gph pump would support 2500hp+

I did a search on google for "walbro fuel pump 255", and everywhere it's listed it shows lph.

Im putting down at least 2000hp @ the wheels.

I have run into a Dead fuel pump issue that I am at a total loss to figure out and even Alan Johnson is stumped.

The 4 wires into the relay , 2 red , 1 black , one green and black. one of the reds is a constant 12V which will read 12V's with the key on or off. The other is the signal for the fuel pump (green and black , the ground and a redwire which I am not sure of.

Long story short , the car died and hasn't come to life in 2 weeks.  Even if I jumper the fuel pump and put fuel @ the rail , the injectors won't fire and I get nothing

Im at a total loss... anyone else experieced this? I have replaced the relay , I checked to see if there was voltage out of the green and black wire that goes into the relay socket. It does everythingit should. When you turn the key and the pump primes for 4.9 sec it shows voltage , then stops , once you start cranking it the voltage comes on again just like it should. The ECM says the fuel pump is on.

The kicker... When I put the volt meter to the wire (green and black) that comes out of the harness there is no voltage under any circumstance

I don't get it.

JM
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aaron88
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« Reply #258 on: May 19, 2005, 12:32:16 am »

If the ECU says the fuel pump is on and there is no voltage out of pin A1, then the problem is inside the ECU.† If there is power on Pin A1 then it has to be the wiring, relay or pump.

Pull the relay and test it.† Put power to pin 85 and ground pin 86, then listen for a click.† If there is no click the relay is no good.† If there is a click make sure the contact is good by checking the resistance and or current flow though pins 30 and 87 while there is power through pin 85 and 86.† If thatís good your relay is good.

No power on Green and Black...that is a problem.† The red wire is for power to the relay (pin 87) and output from the relay (Pin 30) to the O2 sensor and the injectors (coupled with green and black).† Check for a loose connection on that wire to the injectors.† Perhaps itís that simple, but I wouldnít count on it.† Note: the green and black wire is the power for the fuel pump from the relay output pin 30.† If there is no power coming out of Pin 30 (with ignition on) then you have no pump or injectors.


What else...

Check the flow rate of the fuel pump when it primes.† It might be possible that you mixed up the lines on the fuel tank for the return and the evap when you hooked it up.† If you did there would be a lot of flow restriction which might cause a problem.


Aaron

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« Last Edit: May 19, 2005, 12:36:09 am by aaron88 » Logged

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aaron88
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« Reply #259 on: May 19, 2005, 11:13:07 am »

One more thing.  You will only have power out of pin 30 while the fuel pump is priming or the motor is running.  If you want more time to check the circuit, change the length of time the fuel pump primes for (don't forget to change it back).

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #260 on: May 20, 2005, 09:54:18 am »

I checked the voltage on Pin A1...and thank god it has voltage during prime of 12V+ and during cranking. So I can rule out the ECU.

The fuel pump is so loud you couldn't mistake the sound it makes from priming. Also keep in mind that the car died @ 70mph..so it wasn't like a 1st time run , I have put about 1000kms on it.


The relay clicks for the 4.9 seconds when the car is in the on position ,and again when cranking.
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Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #261 on: May 20, 2005, 10:05:44 am »

Pin 30 has power as it should. under cranking and under prime.
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northfiero
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« Reply #262 on: May 20, 2005, 12:17:07 pm »

OK, in summary, what's it doing?

Jumper the fuel pump to +12, and it runs?
But doesn't prime or run during cranking?
But you do have the correct signals to the relay?

Is that the jist of it?
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Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #263 on: May 20, 2005, 03:15:04 pm »

Not running @ all!!!

Cranking , Fuel pump not getting signal , if I jumper the fuel pump and prime the system it won't wire becasue the injectors aren't getting any signal.

The following things.

Red wire into relay shows constant 12V
Other red wire shows power when in ""On" position
Green and black into relay shows 12V when priming (you hear relay click) and when cranking.
Ground is grounding

The green wire with the black strip out of the harness into the C203's tan and white wire (Fuel pump positive) is not doing SHIT!!

ARRghhh


Friend of mine who is an electrical engineer is headed here right now from kingston.
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aaron88
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« Reply #264 on: May 20, 2005, 05:13:03 pm »

Sounds like a wiring / grounding issue.  I would like to know what the findings are.

The injectors get their power form the fuel pump relay but the switchings is from the ECU.
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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
northfiero
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« Reply #265 on: May 20, 2005, 06:26:59 pm »

What happens if you jumper the relay to the "closed" position?  Fuel pump and injectors should then have power.....
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stroker
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« Reply #266 on: June 08, 2005, 10:23:39 pm »

hi again everyone
just wandering,
does anybody have interesting numbers from the dyno/g tech's or even track results?
i'm dooing an automatic (4t65ehd) combined with a special torque witch should have around 5% loss and gonna be paddle shift and will have 3.69 final ratio.

marc the stroker
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aaron88
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« Reply #267 on: June 09, 2005, 01:17:46 pm »

Depends what you are looking for?  I do have some G-Tech readings, but your question is vague.

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
stroker
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« Reply #268 on: June 11, 2005, 01:28:51 am »

i saw someone in the past getting 1.17 g's lateral with about the same suspension kit that i have,witch is the one sold by fiero store with koni strut's and eiback springs and sway bar's but what i was referring to is 1/4 mile times and speed's.
it would be nice if someone started a list of the fastest times and related speed's and video attachements while he is at it.
just like the one on mr2's forum
stroker
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Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #269 on: June 11, 2005, 01:08:23 pm »

That 1.17G's BS was posted by Cali kid on Pennocks poop palace. A gtec Does measure G's , but they are not constant G's. The Gtec Will spike and show a maximum G load achieved by the car , but that doesn't mean the car can sustain it. The magazines all use a 300ft circle and drive around it , increasing speed until they loose traction. I spiked a Gtec @ 2.0G's in My Mini cooper with Hooiser autocross tires.. In a Circle the best I could sustain was 1.02. Unless you do some serious work you won't break 1 G with a street driven Fiero. My car with Koni's , Coilovers , 1.25" rear bar and a 1" front bar could sustain .95 on a Vericom (Really expensive more accurate Gtec)

.95 is still better than the vast majority out there but over 1 G would be hard. As for the Gtec's accuracy..use it for 1/4 mile and 0 to 60.. it's somewhat accurate for that.
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