Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
July 22, 2019, 12:42:46 pm
Home Help Search Login Register

Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 19 Go Down Print
Author Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion?  (Read 55822 times)
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #195 on: March 04, 2005, 11:57:04 am »

Yes, but inline to what?
Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
Guest
« Reply #196 on: March 04, 2005, 12:00:28 pm »

Inline filler neck , like on the coolant return line.

I have a 93 Corvette Surge tank I was thinking of using as well , butr iM not sure where to tap it into the system. I figured this would fix the lack of an inline filler neck.

Thoughts?

Logged
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #197 on: March 04, 2005, 01:45:54 pm »

If you want to use a proper surge tank (the right way to do the overflow) then tap in the upper line on the serge tank to the line that use to go through your throttle body (photo on previous page) and the lower line on the surge tank to somewhere on the suction side of the heater core line (just T into it, the line that goes into where the thermostat is). There is one catch to doing this, your upper line must be above the motor, that way you don稚 introduce air into the system every time you stop the motor or take the cap off your surge tank.

You will no longer need the Fiero overflow tank. You have two options, one put a pressure cap on the radiator that has a higher rating then that on your surge tank (keep an eye on the tank in case you have to top it up. Or two (the proper way) remove the Fiero tank and plug the line.

Cadillac pressure cap should be15 psi.

Aaron

P.S. Don't forget to add a few pellets of stop leak to the coolant.

.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2005, 01:51:36 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
northfiero
Guest
« Reply #198 on: March 04, 2005, 05:59:08 pm »

mmmm... driving weather's coming back.....

Couple questions/concerns for Aaron -

I noticed your fuel map goes to 160+!?
  I got my map tuned to 12.6-12.8:1 (checked w/wideband), and the highest value I have is ~135...  Are you running low on fuel pressure or something?  Remember - the northstar's regulator is adjustable with a torx (loctited in place)..  iirc you should see around 40psi idle, 46psi with the vacuum line disconnected......

Anyways,
reading up on megasquirt's tuning page (1/3 way down color table):
http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/mtune.htm
they show that you don't want the whole table rich, but rather, most of it stoich or lean.  Right now I'm getting horrible gas mileage (~10mpg), and I'm pretty sure this is why.  (running open loop for the moment though)
Logged
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #199 on: March 04, 2005, 06:30:36 pm »

I知 running 50 / 60 psi on my rail.

I know I知 running rich but I don稚 have a wide band O2 sensor yet to make sure I知 running in the right range.  But I知 not too far off my narrow band O2 runs between .6 and .75 volts at WOT, and .5 volts during regular driving, so I知 not that far off.  I run in closed loop below half throttle and open loop above half throttle.  I知 getting 30 mpg hwy and 20 mpg fun time.

The fuel map is the first thing people will have to tune, and with this application everyone is going to have to tune their own fuel table anyway because I can稚 guaranty that they are using the same intake, cams, filter, heads, motor (you get the point).  Better rich than lean to start off with though.

Aaron

.
Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
Guest
« Reply #200 on: March 05, 2005, 09:27:00 am »

As soon as I get my Car here (2 weeks) I will be hitting the dyno with it and having it tuned with a wideband. Aarons maps are lightyears better than what CHRFab had done.
Logged
northfiero
Guest
« Reply #201 on: March 05, 2005, 10:15:59 am »

No shit!  Kinda makes me worry.......  I mean they WORK with these things 24/7/365... 
Logged
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #202 on: March 07, 2005, 09:54:58 am »

Wellit痴 more like 8/5/250 minus vacation time, but I get the point.

I don稚 want to talk ill of Alan (CHRFab) because he really does know his stuff, and maybe he didn稚 bother giving me his best tuned maps because he knew I was going to be re-tuning the maps anyway but the maps I did get from him were only okay. They would start the car, and the motor would not have blown up or been damaged, but the performance of the motor was being handicapped, with the original maps.

If you had your maps tuned professionally, there is still nothing wrong about having them double checked. Have a look at your maps and compare them to the ones I have posted and decide for yourself if there is anything to be concerned about.

Don稚 bother doing much of a comparison of the fuel map because that is an easy map to tune and will very from application to application. The main thing on a fuel mat is to have it smooth and not going lean anywhere.

The spark map is also a function of application and will very depending on type of fuel being used and cams being used et-cetera.

The operating temperature range desired will have a large affect on the zeroing in of the other maps as well.

If you don稚 have any expertise in this area I can take a look at your maps and let you know if additional tuning is required.

 Aaron

.
« Last Edit: March 07, 2005, 03:13:25 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
northfiero
Guest
« Reply #203 on: March 07, 2005, 03:40:58 pm »

Wellit痴 more like 8/5/250 minus vacation time, but I get the point.

Oh come on!  You know darn well if you had a shop that worked on Northstars, you'd be dreaming about them too!   Cheesy
Logged
stroker
Guest
« Reply #204 on: March 19, 2005, 11:47:05 am »

could i have my motor running with a PRO SCAN2 tool or any of these scanning devices that are availlable .
my motor is a 98 and i have the oem harness and computer
with what i understand an obd2 system can be reprogrammed with such a device
since we can change the full pressure with the screw on the regulator it allows for plenty of tuning capacity .
now all is needed is a fuel rail that is haft decent,by this i meen something better than stock cause these have been knowed to cause fires cause they leak.
ive seen a guy building an mr2 with the same motor as ours that has one done
marc the stroker.
Logged
bootstrap86
Guest
« Reply #205 on: March 19, 2005, 02:51:28 pm »

 I would like to think Aaron and all the guys who have contributed to this work. Afro. Well done!  I am getting old and have been conned by my son into doing this conversion. We should be starting this fall. It seems like he is tired of the 3.4 conversion [we did while he was in college]. Now, he wants a real toy.His 84 GT [2.8]  was his first car bought in 1990. Thanks again as yhis will really help an old man out.

Lee
Logged
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #206 on: March 21, 2005, 09:33:17 am »

Bootstrap86;

Welcome to the board, and good luck with the project.

I try to help out when I can.  Most of the info is here, but some stuff for sure, will be a learning process.


Aaron

.
Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
Guest
« Reply #207 on: March 22, 2005, 12:49:12 pm »

Well I drove the car on Sunday about 50Kms , no coolinbg problems. I failed to realize that the alternator NEEDS the small red wire on the caddy plug connected to a switched 12V , thankfully the car died a block from a friends house , we charged the battery back up and made it home. The big power supply wire from the alternator to the battery is not enough to keep the car charged. northstars run horribly if the battery is even a bit low.

The car with silencers in the exhaust is still as loud as a nascar. Im not exagerating 1 bit here , it's the loudest street driven car I have ever heard (not good)

One Major problem I ran into is the idle. It's irratic as hell. I spoke with alan @ chrfab and he advised me as how to set the IAC.. I went to the garage , hooked up the ECM to my laptop. Powered it up (turned the ignition key) Uploaded the new settings...if you just change single parameters it overwrites everythign else , so now I have the joy of re-entering in all of Aarons maps.. OHHH but it gets better , no for some reason the Laptop and the ECM aren't communicating , it just says ECM not powered up or connected.


anyone else had this problem? I emailed alan about it and Im just awaiting a response.

The car handles just like it did when the 2.8 was in there. The big brakes do a great job of hauling it down , the 500Lbs rear coilovers ride fine , steering is just like stock. I wanted a loud car , but this is insane.. it's louder than a transport and upon deceleration the crackles through the exhaust sound like gunshot.  If anyone decides to do this conversion USE GOOD MUFFLERS>. mine are Flowmaster Delta force muffelrs you can see through.. it sounds mean , and is liveable @ crusing speeds... but open it up and it's beyond words.

I also fabbed up a nice air intake from 3" mandrel bent pipe , using a mig welder , K&N filter and silicone coupler. All I need to do now is fab up a baseplate to connect it to the alternator. I welded it up , ground down the welds , sanded it , painted it with high heat paint and baked it in the oven @ 250 for an hour.. Nice hard shiney finish.

Still need to finish up the interior , address the tuning issues , get a proper alingment and muffle some of the noise and Im set to go!

J.McCreery
86 GT N* , 5spd , spec alum flywheel , spec clutch , commander 950 Nitrous and all the good stuff..now if I could only get it to work right.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2005, 12:54:51 pm by Slammed Fiero » Logged
aaron88
Ottawa Fiero Member
OFC Post-a-holic
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 1640


Kempvision


« Reply #208 on: March 22, 2005, 03:23:33 pm »

The car with silencers in the exhaust is still as loud as a nascar. Im not exagerating 1 bit here , it's the loudest street driven car I have ever heard (not good)


Canadian Tire muflers $28 each. Although I'm thinking about making a custome one.

Quote

One Major problem I ran into is the idle. It's irratic as hell. I spoke with alan @ chrfab and he advised me as how to set the IAC..


sounds like your thottle plate is a little too far open.


Quote

for some reason the Laptop and the ECM aren't communicating , it just says ECM not powered up or connected.

sounds like a cable problem, or a fried computer (probably cable).  Now that I scared you it's pobably low voltage form the battery that's causing the ECM to not want to fire up.


Quote
I wanted a loud car , but this is insane.. it's louder than a transport and upon deceleration the crackles through the exhaust sound like gunshot. If anyone decides to do this conversion USE GOOD MUFFLERS>. mine are Flowmaster Delta force muffelrs you can see through.. it sounds mean , and is liveable @ crusing speeds... but open it up and it's beyond words.

not a fan of flowmaster lower end stuff. High end stuff is too expensive. There is no reason a muffler should cost more than $50.


Quote
I also fabbed up a nice air intake from 3" mandrel bent pipe , using a mig welder , K&N filter and silicone coupler. All I need to do now is fab up a baseplate to connect it to the alternator. I welded it up , ground down the welds , sanded it , painted it with high heat paint and baked it in the oven @ 250 for an hour.. Nice hard shiney finish.

nice! I'm trying to figure out a way to get 3.5" intake. 4" is too big and 3.5 is hard to find in something light.

Aaron

.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2005, 03:25:34 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
northfiero
Guest
« Reply #209 on: March 22, 2005, 11:30:54 pm »

I also fabbed up a nice air intake from 3" mandrel bent pipe , using a mig welder , K&N filter and silicone coupler. All I need to do now is fab up a baseplate to connect it to the alternator.

Alternator?  You mean throttle body?  I think you've got alternators on the brain.   Grin
Logged
Pages: 1 ... 12 13 [14] 15 16 ... 19 Go Up Print 
Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!