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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion?  (Read 64488 times)
BootMachine
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« Reply #105 on: February 25, 2004, 04:20:22 pm »

Yeah that exhaust DID sound good when it was on. It was A LOT quieter than I though!

Sorry we left so early but we both had work in the morning!

Let me know next time you need a hand and I will show up with my mechanics suit!

Question...Aaron. Do you have any tools at your work you could use to bore out a throttle body?

Also...I was thinking...the air temp sensor for sure needs to be in the air stream somewhere INSIDE the engine. As the air passes through the throttle body it will heat up and as it expands inside the intake manifold it will cool. I dont know what kind of resolution your temp sensor has but it should really help once its in the actual engine!

Also...what are your plans to tune the AF mix? I would like to know how you plan to accomplish this!

Let me know!

.....nice work...keep it up man your almost there...its REALLY comming along well since the last time I was out to pick up AKA's engine!

LA
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aaron88
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« Reply #106 on: March 02, 2004, 07:52:36 pm »

Boot

I do not have the tools to bore out a throttle body.

My car does not have a supercharger in it, therefore; the amount the air heats up in the intake due to intake obstructions is less than one degree.  However once I get the intake properly plumbed to air outside my engine bay there will be a significant difference in temperature.  I will at that time make a concerted effort to properly install the MAT (or IAT) sensor.  Please note that my install is not complete yet.  There is much work yet to do.

As for the A/F mixture...I have to assume that you donít know what a holley computer is like to tune.  Itís basically like this; everything on my engine (okay almost everything) is controlled by the computer, the computer has manual tuning tables.  Plug in your laptop and bring up the table for the thing you want to tune and basically change the values depending on your sensor readings.  For example lets say you wanted to tune youíre A/F mixture, you would bring up you ďMain Fuel MapĒ and adjust your pulse width for any particular rpm and MAP sensor position that your sensors have told you need to be modified.  Iíll attach a scanned page from my 100 page booklet that holley gives you on how to tune your computer.


Aaron

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« Last Edit: June 22, 2006, 06:57:44 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
aaron88
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« Reply #107 on: March 02, 2004, 08:22:02 pm »

I finally had time to get the photos off my camera that I took the night we finished the exhaust.  Basically itís just a matter of finding the right bend radius and putting it together.

I went out and got 10 feet of 2 inch exhaust tubing and then made a number of bends on a pipe bender.  However the pipe bender at my work is not very good and doesnít make tight bends.  So as I found out, the front (or right) manifold was not a problem, but when it came the rear (left) manifold I had to go out and get me some 90į bend elbows from Canadian tire to make some really tight bends, and on top of that I had to cheat a little.  I used new exhaust brackets (the old ones would not work well).

But here it is.  As I said before I removed the bottom trunk aria to make room for the mufflers.  I also wanted a quiet exhaust so I went with a larger muffler than the standard glass pack.

The trunk was then fitted with a new bolt in aluminum bottom with heat shield.


Aaron

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« Last Edit: June 22, 2006, 06:58:40 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
hellfish87gt
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« Reply #108 on: March 02, 2004, 08:44:54 pm »

aaron i have a quick question, what bolts did you use to bolt up the flywheel, i'm having a heck of a time finding 8x25mm flywheel bolts, infact they are not offerd by atp. and the do anythign to do with tranny's
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aaron88
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« Reply #109 on: March 02, 2004, 10:16:10 pm »

There are a number of fastener stors here in ottawa that carry whatever you may need.  But if you can't get what you need there you shold be able to get it online.  I had a link somewhere...were was that?  Got it.

http://www.boltdepot.com./product.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=22&cd=1328

You will likely have to shave off some of the head thickness, but make sure there is still 4 mm left.  As I stated in this thread, check to make sure the clutch clears the transmission bell housing when new and clears the bolt heads when compleatly worn out.

If for some reason you can't get the bolts you need online, I can get them for you.


Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
aaron88
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« Reply #110 on: March 31, 2004, 07:30:56 pm »

I finally got a chance to install the water temp sensor for the Fiero gauge and the Fiero oil pressure sensor.

Basically in order to get the threads to fit I used pipe bushing reducers ( I was going to make new pipe threads but it wasnít worth the trouble).

Water temp sensor: As stated before, there is a pipe thread plug already in the coolant cross-over manifold that can be adapted for the water temperature sensor.  There are two wires, one is for the temperature gauge and the other is for the idiot light, both in the Fiero gauge cluster.  The power is grounded through the casing to the manifold.  To find out which wire is which, use an ohm meter.  The resistance from the casing to the idiot light switch pin should be infinite, and the resistance from the water temperature gauge pin to the casing should be about 3 to 4 kilo-ohmís, depending on the sensor temperature when you check it. Remove the plug in the coolant manifold and replace in with the pipe bushing adapter.  The thread in the manifold is 1/2Ē pipe thread and the one on the Fiero sensor is 3/8Ē pipe thread.  So you will need an adapter from 1/2Ē to 3/8Ē (as seen it the photo).  These you should be able to pick up at your local hardware store.  Then just put in your water temperature sensor and hook it up to the corresponding gauges.  I didnít feel like paying the money that GM was asking for, for the new connector since the old one on the Fiero was already heat damaged and cracked, so I just soldered on some wires and used my own connector (your going to want a connector of some sort just in case you have to drop the motor for any reason.

Oil pressure sensor:  This is very simple so no photos are provided.  The pipe bushing adapter you will need for this is 3/8Ē pipe thread to 1/4Ē pipe thread (sensor).  Remove the Northstar oil pressure switch and insert the adapter then the Fiero oil pressure sensor.  Two of the pins will have infinite resistance to the block, those are for the old fuel pump relay.  The other one should read a few kilo-ohmís, thatís for the gauge (if you have it).

As I have said before, itís a really good idea to get new gauges for this and not re-use the old ones.  Although you can.

Aaron

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Update:

Update on the Fiero coolant temperature gage mounting location.  I finally got around to checking it and I did mount it in the EGR system (thanks for bringing this to my attention).  Iím not sure how I could have made this mistake but I did.  It must have had something to do with the long hours I was working or the lack of sleep.

Although this location is not the right location to mount this sensor it does seem to work.  The reason for this is because itís so close to the coolant that it keeps a close temperature to it, however it will not keep an accurate temperature and it will take longer to respond to temperature changes due to the transfer from air and then to the sensor.  It also picks up a lot of radiant heat off the block.  I will be moving this sensor into a proper location this winter or coming spring, so look for update picís then.

« Last Edit: June 22, 2006, 06:59:24 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
hellfish87gt
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« Reply #111 on: April 01, 2004, 03:44:21 am »

looking good aaron. i have a quick question. i just got my computer from chrfab. and i'm have ing a bitch of a time finding two of the sensors. the cam sensor was easy , but the 2 plugs lables ign top, and ign bot. i cant find where these go. are they hidden in the front of the good looking head, or some where on the ugly head, or what. i wish it was easier to locate diagrams for the N*
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aaron88
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« Reply #112 on: April 01, 2004, 09:50:07 am »

If your not talking about the upper and lowing crank sensors then Iím not sure what you are looking for.  I therefore have to assume that your wiring is slightly different.

Crank sensors are behind the manifold just up and right of the oil filter.

Aaron

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« Last Edit: June 22, 2006, 06:59:56 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
hellfish87gt
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« Reply #113 on: April 04, 2004, 01:16:30 pm »

ok i found those i was just on the crack :p now all i need to do is either hook up the oil cooler or make a bypass. then fire it up
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hellfish87gt
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« Reply #114 on: April 04, 2004, 06:12:52 pm »

hey arron di dyou get the patch cable with your computer. to tune it. cause they dont include that anymore with the computer. at least not with mine. i'd assume it couldbe made easy. i would just need to know where each of the wires go.
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Patrick Horne
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« Reply #115 on: April 05, 2004, 02:32:07 am »

Hey, what's up!  I'm new to the Forum (linked to it via PFF).

I read part of this thread last fall, and since I'm buying an 88 in the next couple of weeks and planning on switching the N* install from my 86 to the new 88, I thought I'd read up on your Northstar install again.  You've made some awesome progress!  I'm very impressed!

I have a couple of questions for you though.  What kind of mufflers did you end up using (I don't think you ever listed them) and would you be willing to sell another set of the engine mounts for the 88 cradle?  If so, please email me and let me know (phorne_tca@yahoo.com).  You've got about the cleanest setup I've seen as far as mounts go!

Anyway, keep up the great work and post some 1/4 times when you have it running!  The anticipation of having mine come to life is killing me and your success this far makes it even that much more exciting for me!  Smiley

Thanks!

Patrick Horne,
phorne_tca@yahoo.com
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aaron88
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« Reply #116 on: April 05, 2004, 10:51:14 am »

Hellfish:  Iíll try to get those pin outís for you latter this week.  I almost didnít get the cable, but he does have it if you ask for it.

Patrick:  The mufflers I used were a Canadian Tire Special.  Basically: one pipe going in, one pipe coming out, and nothing between them.  I think they were Cherry Bomb (brand name) Turbo mufflers.  Something like 28 dollars each.  Stainless Steel tips, 16 dollars each (not shown).  Some things I will spend money on and some things I will not.  Basically, Iím not going to pay 150 dollars each for a muffler that has the same flow restriction but makes more noise.  Some people agree and some disagree.

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
hellfish87gt
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« Reply #117 on: April 05, 2004, 04:25:14 pm »

thanks for your help wiht the pin outs everythign else is pretty much coming to gether now
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hellfish87gt
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« Reply #118 on: April 09, 2004, 06:47:31 pm »

any word on those pin outs aaron? i called holley and they are useless. and no one in winnipeg can help either. this is getting frustrating
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aaron88
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« Reply #119 on: April 14, 2004, 10:46:17 am »

If anyone wants to actually see what I did for the trunk floor?  Basically; I cut out the bottom portion of the trunk and then installed a bunch of nutcerts.  The floor piece has three bends in it.  one in the middle to fit the contour of the trunk better and the other at the back so to seal against the back wall.  All along the sealing surface is weatherstriping.  A heat shield was also added.

Aaron

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« Last Edit: June 22, 2006, 07:00:39 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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