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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion?  (Read 99628 times)
aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #270 on: June 13, 2005, 06:20:01 am »

Stroker;

I totaly agree about the lateral G's.  The G tech isn’t so good with the lateral G’s because it doesn’t have a pitch correction for how much your car will roll in a corner.  It is good for tuning your car to achieve maximum G’s in the corner, but you won’t know what the lateral G’s really are until you drive it on a skid pad.  A 200’ skid pad can be made in a parking lot.  Basically time yourself around the circle and calculate what the G force must be to maintain that circle and time.

That being said the forward G’s are much more accurate since the new G-meters have a correction factor that can be calibrated against real runs to hone in how much your car will actually pitch during take-off (so many degrees per G sort of thing).

With nice ZR racing tires (properly matched for your cars weight distribution, ie. 245's in the rear) and a suspension kit on your car you should expect to reach somewhere just over 1 G in the corners (like 1.05 to 1.1 G’s) but don’t expect to reach anything over .8 G’s with street tires.  Please also note that tuning suspension geomatry is a topic way to involved to get into in this post.  Let's just say there are a lot more things involved than just installing a kit and going.


Aaron

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EDIT-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm editing this post because after reading this post again, and after further consideration, I really don't think it's likely that a street legal fiero is going to reach 1 g let alone 1.1 g's.  I think .95 is a much more likely number.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2005, 12:16:03 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #271 on: August 18, 2005, 11:53:12 am »

So , hows everyones project going? I drove mine home from oakville to kingston without fault. Took it to a 2 day long car show in kingston and Won my class and Peoples choice for the whole show.

Going to pull it out this winter and swap the heads and cams.

Also ordered a Wideband O2 meter with data logging
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #272 on: August 18, 2005, 12:24:17 pm »

Nice job...

...so I take it the cams and such aren't for sale anymore?  That's okay because I'm not going to have the money for a while anyway.

Congrats again.

As far as the project…I have the idle working nicely, but I find that after a long run (say 30 min or so) the intake air temperature is getting a bit higher than I’d like it to and it’s causing the motor to run a little rich momentarily when I let off the gas.  So two things next on the list is, change the radiator for a Nova rad, and insulate my cold air intake.  The car doesn’t run hot but it is running a little hotter than I’d like it to by about 10 to 15 °F.


Aaron

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« Last Edit: August 18, 2005, 12:31:51 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
GoFast88
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« Reply #273 on: August 19, 2005, 08:05:06 am »

The Nova rad is a drop-in replacement?
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aaron88
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« Reply #274 on: August 19, 2005, 10:02:15 am »

no, it requires new brackets because it's a few inches taller.  No big deal really.  I'm going to try and find a copper one with a single wide core.
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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #275 on: August 19, 2005, 10:21:08 am »

You can order aluminum 4 core rads from Jegs or Summit for under $200... Thats on my list...
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northfiero
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« Reply #276 on: August 20, 2005, 01:39:06 pm »

The car doesn’t run hot but it is running a little hotter than I’d like it to by about 10 to 15 °F.

Ditto.  I bet the stock v6 radiator would work if it were brand new, but on a nearly 20 year old radiator, I think mine's a bit overloaded.
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MrPbody
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« Reply #277 on: September 14, 2005, 11:04:24 pm »

I've been watching this thread for a wile now and picked up several good tips for my own swap in progress, so I figure it's time for some pay back.
I had been having nightmares trying to figure out why I couldn't get a decent idle from my stock 98 L-37 with 950pro ecu. my idle problem was very erratic and would sometimes sneek up to near 2500 for no apparant reason, then snap back to near normal.  I knew I didn't have an air leak as I could seat the iac and unplug it and get the motor to chug along at ~500 rpm. I tested and retested for shorts and poor connections to no avail. After 2 weeks of frustration I finally happened to check the voltage of the switched wire to the ecu from the ign switch and noticed a voltage loss of about 1/2 volt from actual batt voltage. it traced back to the ign switch itself. I just put in a new one and now have a good solid idle at 1200.

ymmv,
Pbody
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bootstrap86
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« Reply #278 on: November 26, 2005, 09:06:54 pm »

Slammed Fiero

 I was going over the thread again: it's been about 6 months since I last checked in. Did you ever make it to the dyno. I didn't seem to find
 that post and i was all ears ( all eyes in this case).

Bootstrap86
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Slammed Fiero
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« Reply #279 on: December 20, 2005, 10:47:52 am »

Just took a week off and worked on the car.. Took the engine out , redid some engine mounts, powdercoated the valve covers wrinkle red (like a ferrari) and painted the engine cover Gloss black. Also added Supertrapps with 2 Bolt Flanges for easy removal. They made a huge difference and really quieted the car down.... but when I want to be annoying and loud the flanges come off with 2 bolts and Im running pretty much open exhaust.

Cradle was all repainted , tranny was repainted , changed the oil , just little things really.. I had the motor out in 3 hours.. Friend of mine took off the week as well to work on the car...

Got the motor out Monday and it was back in thursday night and all buttoned up by Friday , coolant purged...

a few little things left to do , bleed the slave cylinder , Tidy a few things... other than that she's done... Just waiting for my Wideband  02 from Innovte (LM1) and off we go... Tuned to perfection.

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smith123
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« Reply #280 on: March 28, 2006, 05:45:07 pm »

i was told the 4.7l would drop right in and my 4 speed trans would bolt right on and there was no real fabrication needed
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #281 on: March 29, 2006, 08:45:16 pm »

i was told the 4.7l would drop right in and my 4 speed trans would bolt right on and there was no real fabrication needed


Huh

Depends on who you are.   I don't think it's that big a deal, but some aren't qualified to finish.

Aaron

.
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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
dguy
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Got vacuum. Want boost.


« Reply #282 on: April 25, 2006, 12:16:50 pm »

Aaron, have you put those cams in yet?
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1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #283 on: April 25, 2006, 11:54:06 pm »

No, but I did go pick them up this weekend past Evil

Probably not going in untill the fall.
Re-do coolant surge tank.
brakes.
not sure what else.

Aaron

.
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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
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