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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion?  (Read 100454 times)
fiero308
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« Reply #45 on: November 10, 2003, 07:31:16 pm »

hey Bushroot;
if you have any links or ideas on that I'd be interested.  LMK;
appreciate any and all info.
thx!!

 Grin
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bushroot
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« Reply #46 on: November 11, 2003, 01:47:19 am »

http://sandstallion.com/link_wiem.html
http://sandstallion.com/engines.html
http://www.bbandtracing.com/EAGLE.html
http://www.rosspistons.com/custom/eightcylinder.php3
http://www.avengercylinderheads.com/
http://www.speclutches.com/specMain.html
http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_thhe.html
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Intercoolers.asp?idDept=8
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/images/PWRBarrelIntercoolers.jpg
http://www.precisionte.com/products/products.php?view=robot&qcategory=Fuel+Components&qtype=Fuel+Pumps
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Mitsubishi%20Turbos/EVO%2016g/EVO16g.html

That should be enough to chew on for a couple minutes anyway.

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fiero308
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« Reply #47 on: November 11, 2003, 06:44:36 pm »

actually what I was referring to (you have to be a mind reader Roll Eyes )
was info on the coil over suspension; especially if it is fiero setups but interested in looking at anything.
thanks!!
 Grin
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bushroot
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« Reply #48 on: November 11, 2003, 08:33:02 pm »

Aaaaah!....in that case....


http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=343
http://dwayne9.addr.com/fiero.html
http://www.shox.com/
http://www.westcoastfiero.com/suspension/suspension.html
http://www.heldmotorsports.com/suspen.htm
http://www.8shark.com/

How about some brakes too?

http://www.magnumforce.com/store4/wilwood_disc_brakes.htm
http://www.inlinetube.com/
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #49 on: November 24, 2003, 09:26:55 am »

Use of a grinder on the body:

I’m not going to post any pictures for this because all the arias I’m talking about can be seen from previous pictures.

The dogebone bracket for the original (2.Cool engine was cut out.  To do this and make as few holes as possible I used a grinder to grind off the spot welds from the top.  First I found all the weld spots and marked them, then grinded about 95% of the way though the top sheet metal.  Do one spot at a time then pry up the metal, that way you can be sure which spots need more grinding.  If there is life still in the spot weld don’t pull harder it should just come off nicely (with very little force).  After you have the piece out then grind down all the spots so when painted you can’t see a disaster. (see the engine clearance pictures)  I did the same thing with the battery tray because I’m relocating it to the front of the car, for better weight distribution.  However; if desired the battery tray can be saved but will have to be modified if so.  I didn’t go this rout so I don’t have any instructions for this.  Perhaps in the future someone will post a solution.

Some of those little brackets for mounting screws that are on your fire wall (except for the bottom two, which are quite useful), that stick out more than an inch should be removed.  It makes it much easier to rout things later.  However every application is going to be a little different, since every installer is going to rout things a little differently.  After you have done a dry fit to see what has to go and have figured out where you are going to rout thing, then you can remove the redundant points of irritation. (see the fuel and heater hose pictures)

The right side trunk lid hinge; this hinge will have to be trimmed if using the manual transmission, how much will depend on your placement.  I had to remove the pre-tensioned rods as well.  I measured the placement with the automatic transmission and found that with the right placement (mounting to the left) everything should fit fine between the hinges, and the stock setup can stay.  (see the dogebone picture)

There will also be a lot of grinding your cradle as well but that goes without saying.

As a note, I think this should be considered because I almost had a little problem with this.  When grinding in the general vicinity of your windows, do yourself a favour and cover them up with a good fire resistant blanket.  Otherwise you may end up with a mess to clean off your window.

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #50 on: November 24, 2003, 09:30:26 am »

Electrical is almost complete.  I will be posting the results sometime in the next few weeks.  Sorry but I’ve been busy, plus winter is comming so there is no rush anymore.

Aaron

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BootMachine
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« Reply #51 on: December 01, 2003, 04:01:00 pm »

Aaron,

you have the SICKEST shop!!!!!

I WISH I had that shop to work in!

Props guy!

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a.k.a
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« Reply #52 on: December 01, 2003, 06:39:55 pm »

dude....now i know why you don't mind doing the swap!

mmm, what tool do I need Huh

AH there it is, right next to the lathe and spray booth!

bahahahaha
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #53 on: December 02, 2003, 11:17:45 am »

Well; we do build fire trucks.  We have all the tools that use to make me drool.  Now they just make me take on overly ambitious projects that take insane amounts of my free time.

If anyone wants a progress report?  The car is all wired up, but I ran into a little problem with the poor little Fiero battery and battery cables.

Apparently the negative battery cable (from the Fiero) isn’t big enough to supply the juice required to turn over that 4.6 beast.  I tried and tried but all I did was heat up that poor little cable until it was hot enough to almost burn me (that’s when I figured out why it wasn’t turning over).  So I haven’t been able to start the motor even though I have all the wiring done.  I ran out of time so it’s going to have to wait.

Next on the list is to relocate the battery up front and include monster cables with it.  No time to do this until next Tuesday (Dec, 9th).  Wait for my report then.

Before I do that though, I should have some time to go over a few things about doing the wiring.  Stay tuned, or get tuned a few days from now.

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
BootMachine
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« Reply #54 on: December 02, 2003, 11:50:15 am »

You gotta get that thing running and invite us out for the test drive!

WOO HOO BABY
This Fiero is gonna kick some serious ass! Its gonna tear every Honda in Ottawa a few new assholes!

I heard my Prelude scream when I saw the engine hanging from the celing.
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PBJ
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« Reply #55 on: December 02, 2003, 10:24:07 pm »

Very impressive work.   Looking well done!  

I am interested in how the firewall dog bones will hold up, have you heard/seen of any other fiero's with such a dog bone set up?

Pete
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #56 on: December 03, 2003, 09:40:20 am »

I have never seen a Northstar installation firsthand before.  I’ve seen some picks here and there but what you see here is my first hand problem solving.  Some things may have been done better by someone else but until that is shown I’ll stand by my methods, they made a lot of sense to me when I did them.

The dog bone is quite secure.  The engine bay plate is a three layer plate that builds up thicker and thicker as you get to the point of application, more than strong enough.  The inner plate is 3/16” 5052-H32 aluminum, if this plate shows any sign of disfigurement then I’ll post that news and list the correct size and thickness to use on the inside.  However I am expecting a cirtain amount of flex in the fire wall.  Again, if it’s too much then I’ll post my solution (I do have one but at this time it involves more work but can be done with the motor in anyway).

First gear will through about 1300 lb (rough calculation) per dogbone.  It should hold no problem, but it will flex.

Aaron

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« Last Edit: April 02, 2004, 05:21:53 pm by aaron88 » Logged

Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
BootMachine
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« Reply #57 on: December 05, 2003, 02:48:15 pm »

If you are flexing the metal over and over again...will it not eventually become stressed and fracture?
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aaron88
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Kempvision


« Reply #58 on: December 05, 2003, 03:23:29 pm »

Whether the metal brakes or not depends entirely on the amount of flex and the time in-between left for recovery (in my case I have all winter every winter for the metal to stress relieve itself, which shouldn’t be necessary).

This is why I need to observe the amount of flexing in order to determine if it’s safe or not.  I do believe that the flex will not be substantial enough to warrant any worry, but in the case that it is, I will post a solution.

Steel has great flexing properties, this is why steel is used for springs so much.  They really last a long time under these conditions as long as you are not approaching the yield stress.  The yield stress can be approached easily by applying a small stress really fast or by vibrating it at it’s natural frequency, but those are conditions that I don’t have to worry about.  

Aaron

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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
BootMachine
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« Reply #59 on: December 08, 2003, 12:16:44 pm »

Cool stuff!

I just learned something!
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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Project Work Logs  |  Topic: Thinking Northstar Conversion? « previous next »
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