More power but no engine swapping?

[Andrew]

Was going to ask this at the last meeting but my youngest caught my cold and I had to be the good Daddy and comfort him.

Anyways, most of you guys  seem to go with the engine swap to get more power, but for me, the financially challenged, I can't really afford another engine and pay somebody to do the switch or even be without my car for more then an afternoon. But I was wondering what I can do with my '84 engine to get a little more Oomph out of it. Are there any little trinkets or mods  that I can slowly add to get my baby stronger. Any suggestions would be appreciated, and please remember i'm a computer geek and my car knowledge is limited to changing my own oil and air filter, rotating my tires and fixing my door lock , other then that, I know where the engine is and the basic princible of a combustion engine other then that, I know nothing  

[FieroBUZZ]

As usual we're going to send you off to read.

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/fierost4rsc/fierost4rsc.html]http://www.k12.nf.ca/gc/Staff/Teachers/Crummey/fiero/[/urlIra has a nice site with lots of great info.  Print up the colouring book for the kids as it sometimes disappears.

[url]http://mywebpage.netscape.com/fierost4rsc/fierost4rsc.html

At the very least a good all round tune up should help.  The electric parts (ign module, etc) should be of good quality to last in the hot compartment.

If you still have the original cat converter, I would change it out.  They tend to block up over time and if it's broken up (rattles when shaken) then it may also have fouled the muffler with broken bits.

Andrew, What seat covers do you need to replace to get rid of the oddball upholstery patch?  I am asking as I am picking up a set of tan 84 seats, with 2 decent cushions and 1 good back,  I think the colour scheme is the same as yours.  I am replacing with gray covers so don't need them.
Gary

[Andrew]

I need a driver side one, got two patches on the left and right where my cellphone seems to have rubbed throught the seat.    I've since stopped wearing the phone as soon as I realized where the darn holes came from.

[aaron88]

Fiero Diet

If you want your car to handle and go faster you can opt for the removing redundant weight option.  I haven’t completely started to look into this yet but I will be looking into it sometime in the future and will start a thread on the subject.  You should be able to remove 200 lb from the car (or more).  Some components can be replaced with custom aluminum ones.

Aaron

.

[FieroBUZZ]

Fiero Diet

If you want your car to handle and go faster you can opt for the removing redundant weight option.  I haven’t completely started to look into this yet but I will be looking into it sometime in the future and will start a thread on the subject.  You should be able to remove 200 lb from the car (or more).  Some components can be replaced with custom aluminum ones.

Aaron

.

I took almost 200 lbs off mine yesterday (both doors).

Why won't anyone stop me?  

[FieroBUZZ]

Andrew, here are the ones I got.  Same pattern and colour as yours?

The back of the driver seat is ripped (arrow), but we can put the other skin on yours easily. Both bottoms are good.

They need a good wash first, cold water and air dry.  

The tracks are pretty nasty, ugh!

[2ML67]

My appologies Gary when you said you removed 200lbs I thought you meant you let someone else drive. But I see you still believe the best swap is the one that removes the most parts to do it. That although is not the way I do things it does appear to be working in your case.
As I have said before my garage is always open to you just ship it all down here and you can drive home when it is done. Don't you just hate those over confident smart asses, oh wait a minute I think that is me.Dan

[BootMachine]

If you dont have a lot of cash you MAY still want to do a swap.

Just do a straight up V6 conversion. NOW...I know very little about Fieros but based on what I do know you SHOULD need

- engine
- tranni
- axles
- mounts
- ECU...sorry....domestic...ECM

I'm sure someone could hook you up with that list for under 2 grand. Buy a ring, bearing and seal kit for 300 bucks, rebuild the engine and your done!

or...if you want to go a little cheaper say in the 1500 range and NOT pull your engine.

- 500 to rebuild the stocker engine top to bottom
- 70 for a cold air intake (easy to make....I'll just do it for you if you get the materials)
- 400 mandel bent exhaust with nice stainless muffler (no cans) and nice stainless header. High flow cats are only like 75 bucks.

You COULD do the 1500 job for less but you would want some nice materials to ensure a power gain. Most of the fancy cold air intakes on the Hondas that cost an arm and a leg really do shit all...like .5 HP top end....get a nice on bent up just for you and tune the flow velocity...its not hard

The 1500 job i'd say is good for at least 3-8HP on the top end and a few more torque numbers. You would feel that for sure.

If you want to add to the 1500 kit you can spend another 1500 and go with an SAFC (air fuel controller), a larger fuel pump and.....shhhh.....dont let them know I'm saying this.......but nitrous.

I know I know...its gay honda stuff....but you know....it DOES work and it would be a perfect HP adder for a guy who does not want to pull his engine .

NOthing too big....25-50 shot...have a button on the steering wheel or under the seat or something!

Think long and hard before you do anythign though...

[FieroBUZZ]

As I have said before my garage is always open to you just ship it all down here and you can drive home when it is done.

SH*T!!!!!!!!  Ithought you said mail it to you.  I was just trying to get it down small enough to box for Canada Post.  

[2ML67]

If you like I can start searching for smaller boxes just incase you get bored and dismantle her any further.
Isn't this picking on you fun. Dan

[dguy]

- 70 for a cold air intake (easy to make....I'll just do it for you if you get the materials)

Just a minor nit pick--the stock Fiero air intake IS a cold air intake.  The ducting on both the V6 and the Iron Duke draws fresh air in from a vent in front of the LR wheel.

Apparently people with too much time on their hands have dyno'd 2.8's with both the stock intake plumbing, and with an aftermarket CAI & cone filter jammed in the fender well.  No appreciable difference, other than the audible slurping sound from the aftermarket CAI (there's a water separator in the stock ducting which also doubles as a muffler of sorts).

[dguy]

If you like I can start searching for smaller boxes just incase you get bored and dismantle her any further.
Isn't this picking on you fun. Dan

I wonder if we shoudn't register a charity which could raise funds for the sole purpose of supplying Gary with angle grinder wheels?  

[A.K.A]

SAFC (air fuel controller)

dude, our ecm is too old to handle these things!
and f.y.i the only thing they are good for is to control when and where ur v-tec kicks in...any other useage is mainly asthetic (spl?)

also, (correct me if I am wrong) but our comp will just monitor the tbi functions, watch the o2 sensor and vaccum/map sensor info...if they read wrong, a check engine light is flashed...and reset just as easily

[BootMachine]

- 70 for a cold air intake (easy to make....I'll just do it for you if you get the materials)

Just a minor nit pick--the stock Fiero air intake IS a cold air intake.  The ducting on both the V6 and the Iron Duke draws fresh air in from a vent in front of the LR wheel.

Apparently people with too much time on their hands have dyno'd 2.8's with both the stock intake plumbing, and with an aftermarket CAI & cone filter jammed in the fender well.  No appreciable difference, other than the audible slurping sound from the aftermarket CAI (there's a water separator in the stock ducting which also doubles as a muffler of sorts).

good..then thats 70 bucks buddy wont have to spend...My OE intake charge pipe is CAI too....well...it was....I removed it before I knew what I was doing...but thats another story!

[BootMachine]

SAFC (air fuel controller)

dude, our ecm is too old to handle these things!
and f.y.i the only thing they are good for is to control when and where ur v-tec kicks in...any other useage is mainly asthetic (spl?)

also, (correct me if I am wrong) but our comp will just monitor the tbi functions, watch the o2 sensor and vaccum/map sensor info...if they read wrong, a check engine light is flashed...and reset just as easily

no...the V-ACF is for Hondas. THATS the one that controlls the V-Tec crossover.

The SAFC is a very simple computer that modify's signals from the Map sensor and o2 sensor. It has a fancy display and memory so you can store settings, play back settings and play around with it in real time.

Both the VAFC and SAFC tune your A/F mixture but a wide band o2 sensor may be needed depending on the resolution of the stock one.

The VAFC is for Honda V-tec engines....its an SAFC with an extra wire for the V-Tec solonoid!

The SAFC is universal...if it has a map and o2 sensor....SAFC will work~!