Ottawa Fiero Club Forum

I need a brake line nut, the one that connects the front line with the junction block at the back where the rear lines connect too, it is larger than the rear line nuts on the same block.

If you have a parts car near the fitting at the front of the line at the proportioning valve is the same size and doesn't get exposed to crap like rear one so should be rust free. Dan

Thanks Dan,  I don't have a parts car, but I will look to see if anyone has one that I could have that fitting. I'm not driving down to your place again for that part.

Are you coming to Ottawa soon. ;D

Kitten & I may have a parts car arriving this weekend.  Mildly amusing story behind it, but I'll leave that for when it arrives and I can post a photo.  :)

In any case if the parts car arrives and the nut at either end of the line is salvageable, it's yours.  Stand by...

Haven't forgot about you Tibs, we just haven't yet got to figuring out what out of the hydraulics is salveageable and what isn't .  RGBaker's headlight relay was easy, 'cause what was left of both headlight assemblies were sitting loose in the trunk.   ::) :)

Has anyone replaced the line that runs from the front to the junction block in the back, it's not quite 1/4 inch, it's probably 6 mm.

I don't want to be buying expensive replacements from the fiero store.

I want to know what others have done, cause I'm stumped.

1/4 is slightly too large so what I do is drill out carefully the fitting so the line goes through then flare it. Have done on many cars and never had a leak yet. Its some kind of metric line that no one carries or atleast not that I could find. Dan

What kind of flare do you make, the stock flare is bubble (iso), and the flaring tool I have only does metric lines.

I have two flaring tools.

Bubble (iso) tool set, flares 4.75mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm line.

Double flare (45 degree) tool set, flares 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 line.

I've talked to Dan about my problem with the brake line, the good ol fashion way, on the phone. What Dan does is he drills out the fittings to accept the 1/4 inch line, then he flares the line using, a metric bubble flare tool. He uses the 6mm size on the flaring tool and it works, he says he never had a leak. I tried this but the key with Dan's success was he used a Snap-on flaring tool. I can't afford a Snap-on flaring tool, so I'll bend the line to roughly the stock line and get a garage that has a good flaring tool to do it for me.

For those with money just order the lines from the Fiero Store, problem solved.

I just used the metric nut with the imperial line.  You can get ones that fit right from CTC or UAP.  They cost $1 or something.  I have a flaring tool, no leaks (it’s not Snap-On or anything, I paid $120 for it I think).

Aaron

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Hope that was not your fiero you were doing that to. it sure sounds like a MICKEY MOUSE way of doing things. Reamber spend a little now and it will pay off in the long run. keep it stock.  ???

It would be nice to keep things stock if a 6mm brake line was available.It may not be a Snap-On, but sure is expensive enough to be a good quality tool.

 quote from tibs sept 7 3.56 i don't want to buy the expensivepart from the fiero shop.come on it is for your brakes and it is for your baby it should last the life of the car if it does not get driven in the winter >:( P S use the proper part and you will know it is right.

Make no mistake, the fiero store does the same sort of thing.  The size of the line when dealing with two lines that are so close in size doesn’t matter.  What does matter is the fit, wall thickness, fluid flow velocity and the wall flex.

All the fiero store does is buy a bunch of brake line a few nuts, and bend the line on a fixture (yes it’s a fixture not a jig, I’m tired of people mixing the two up).  There is no difference between the job most people can do and what a “professional” does.  Except the cost.


Aaron

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It may be just me but steveo is starting to sound a lot like that Joe guy from racetech. trying to unload other peoples stuff and insulting home mechanics doing a good job without the need of over priced companies. Dan

2ml67. l feel that if this is how you want to put your together this is fine. But this is NOT how it is done from the factory, I do all the work that I can on my own cars as I am as cheap as they come. i fYOU CAN LIVE WITH IT THAT WAY THIS IS FINE. But to say you cannot get the proper parts is another thing. He was looking for the proper part and guys came up with CHEAPER ways. IF I was going to do it the cheaper way I would be going to the junk yard andbuy the proper part either way this is my 2 cents worth and thatis it for any more posts on this subject. SORRY TO UPSET SOME OF YOU CAR GUYS :( :(

Use a used brake part of questionable past acestory and stake you life on it?? Does foolhardy ring a bell? I would rather use a new part and sensably adapt it to the proper use if you can't buy a porper new one.
my 0.02 worth.

Lets see $20 new brake line slightly too large, drill out fitting and flare properly to fit. You see this as bad. Lets see even dealer does this as well as many garages and they have no problem but you do. Either you are some kind of genius the likes of which this world has never seen before or you are an uninformed mentally handicapped fool probably working on second hand info from an even dumber person. Or you believe its better to be driving around with 20 year old rusted brake lines hoping they do not break or leak and cause your breaks to fail. Dan

2ml67 i guess l upset some of you guys about my thoughts. l said that i would not repost any more on this subject but after the  post you put up i thought that you should read what you post before you post something. read the first post you did after the request was asked. i think you said to take the part off a parts car. think before you post. is that not the same as getting it from the jung yard :o

I was asking about the fitting, and that is what Dan was talking about. I did get a good fitting(thanks Kev) and then I couldn't get a line to fit through the fitting. This is when the idea of drilling out the fitting to accept 1/4 inch line and then bubble flare it with a good quality tool came out.

I don't see how this can be unsafe using new brake line, I wouldn't use junk car brake line.

Once again you do not get it the post was that the front fitting which is in a sealed from weather area and does not corrode is the same as the rear one that is usually rotted from rust. Therefore there is nothing wrong with the front fitting and no reason not to use it. The rear fitting along with the rusted lines are what should not be used. Dan

Allright, that's enough.

You all win.

Now please stop beating me.

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Welcome  ;) ....  What kind of ride do you have? 

Joe