Ottawa Fiero Club Forum

Hey guys, just took a look at a fiero today, and would like some opinions.

Take a look at pictures

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/1.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/2.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/3.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/5.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/6.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/7.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/8.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/9.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/10.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/11.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/12.jpg)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/500/13.jpg)

I tried to take the best I can for pictures.

Basically, it would be for doing a 3.8L SC car.  The Frame looks to be mostly surface rush from the pictures.

the main part that is a little worrysome is the last picture.  Thats pretty much carpet hanging thru, so I would have to patch that, but I don't see an issue doing that soo much.  Trunk has a little bit of rush, but thats mostly cut out for exhaust.

Let me know Comments.  thanks!

I think that's an awful lot of rush.  I would suspect that the frame is pretty rushed as well.

Is it free?   :(

There's an 85 GT at Ed's salvage for 500.00 that looks a lot better than that.

Are those snow-throwers in the frunk?  ;)

I once knew a good snow-shovel spoiler that would have worked well on that car.   :D

Cheers, Derek

With that much rust it should be close to free if not free like Gary said.  Having personally seen the GT at Ed's it is decent as a restorer or builder, that one has 10 times more potential over the one in the pics.  He wants to sell it as a whole which is a good call imo.  Its a pretty clean car that needs some tlc, you should check it out.  I'd pick it up as a restorer but with so many other projects on the go, one more sitting here would just be wrong on several levels....

Tough crowd.   ;)

IMO floors are repairable, and it's dirt simple to do so.  It's not a structural part--if you don't care about looks, sheet metal, rivets, and rubberized undercoating.  Hell I haven't owned a GM yet where those damned "plugs" in the floor pan haven't eventually rotted out and taken part of the floor pan with them.

Boneheaded design, those are.  They bloody things are sealed on the inside, but the outside is left alone leaving seams on the underbody which collect moisture and promote floor rot.   ::)

If it was me, I'd be looking primarily at the frame & cradle, plain and simple.  If the only rust damage there is to the surface, it's saveable with some TLC.  i.e. media blasting and/or rust treatment (POR-15, Rust Bullet, etc.).

Not all the photos would come through for some reason.  Did you take a peek behind the rear wheel wells and rear quarters at the upper frame rails?

The 4 cyl doesn't matter for swap bait.  The interior is trash, the gas tank and brace appear to be well on their way.  Looks like it may have been parked long term in long grass.

I wouldn't pay any more than $100 for it. And on top of that it will need to be totally stripped and sandblasted.

The drain plugs are cheap metal and all I;ve seen are rusting to some extent.  I just cut mine from sheet stock and sealed it all with undercoating.

Thats what I am thinking.  the Ed's Salvage one I will have to take a look at for sure.  Really, I want a car that I can do a 3800Swap, then do a Fino Kit.  Motor First, then Fino.

If you're going to spend that much money find a clean car.  The time alone that you save will more than pay for the extra car.

Aaron

.

yes this is true, unless you want some kind of crazy project car, and you like rebuilding all the metal from scratch

If you feel like some valley Fiero There is a black 84 in renfrew at some used dealership in good condition.

Well, took a look at the one at Ed's and its a little, well.. no go for me.  First of all, there are no keys so I can't just drive it home. lol.  Also it doesn't look to be in as good of shape as people have been saying.  Couldn't really get any shots of the frame (Sitting in lots of MUD) or open the trunk (No Key) so, I don't think so, at most I would say its only worth $200 max.

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/1.JPG)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/2.JPG)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/3.JPG)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/4.JPG)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/5.JPG)

(http://www.northernlightspcs.com/lol/ed/6.JPG)

You are just looking at a huge expense by trying to buy a junker and fix it up.  Get the best possible car you can afford.  If you want to swap the motor later,  so be it.

How much did that guy want for the one in the pics?  It certainly doesn't look like you could drive it home.  :-[

I'd ignore 84's except as parts cars. 

Anyway, what's the budget for the intial purchase of the 'project' car?

the red car was $500, and it was drivable.

Price wise, $1500 max.  These people on trader are listing these cars for way more then they are worth.  But ya..  $1500 max range.  I have bought a really good condition car for under that before, so I don't see why I should have to spend more then that.

For swap bait, yes you should.  You will have to look around a lot.  Most overpriced cars on sale have been up for sale for years.  Asking price is rarely any indication of what it will get.  However there isn't a lot to be gained by chasing someone who figures their car is made of gold.

I drove an Olds today that was $400.  It just needed $3000 worth of work to safety.   >:D

Look at everyone you find.  That gem may appear.  ;)

Here's one
http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/611403&category=sports-cars (http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/611403&category=sports-cars)

there's also a later v-6 car at $2500 in there somewhere

I hear a decent little 84 just popped up in our very own "Sell your car" section.   ;)