WTB: 84 - 86 headlight motors ...

[RGBaker]

... looking for a working pair, if you've got 'em.  I'd swap out the ones I have & get the brass gear rebuild kit -- so any working pair that would let me rebuild my current ones at leisure would be good.  I wouldn't turn up my nose at a pair that had already been rebuilt -- heck, I'd toss in my old pair so you could have the joy of a rebuild another time!

I'm open to discussion about swapping out the 84 - 86 system altogether in favour of the 2nd gen 87 - 88  system ... but I'd need all the parts and a little hand-holding for that one.

Aside: Was good to meet folks at Hooters last Saturday.  Little did I know that my 2.8 would be a kiddie toy along side the rest of the hardware on display -- if I could figure out how to keep my wive from driving at 160kph I'd pay more attention to how you shoehorn the big stuff in there ...

Cheers,
Geoff
'86 2M6 SE

[2ML67]

I have the 87 up in my 86 with no problem, work a lot smoother and last longer. The ones out of 87 up Fire birds work just use rh on left side and lf on right side and get the control box plus some wiring and connectors. I keep a spare set at all times prepped for the next car I build. Would never go back to the earlier stuff. Almost every wreckers has at least a few 87 up firebirds. Dan

[dguy]

I have the 87 up in my 86 with no problem, work a lot smoother and last longer. The ones out of 87 up Fire birds work just use rh on left side and lf on right side and get the control box plus some wiring and connectors. I keep a spare set at all times prepped for the next car I build. Would never go back to the earlier stuff. Almost every wreckers has at least a few 87 up firebirds. Dan

I knew about the lefty/rightey trick when stealing headlight motors from Firebirdies, but I'm guessing that the brain for the 87/88 lights is compatible as well then?  Hmmm...

[2ML67]

Same module the one in my car came from a Firebird, my spare from a Fiero. Only need the plugs with some wiring still attached, use Fiero wiring to feed passenger motor and mount module inside drivers fender. Wreckers usually want from $35 to $50 for each motor though. Dan

[tach_abrader]

I'd swap out the ones I have & get the brass gear rebuild kit

I've got a drivers side that works if you want it.  I've got 3 in total, but yesterday my passenger side motor decided to keep spinning when I put it down, so I'm gonna be rebuilding the other two.   Just wondering where you get the brass gear rebuild kit?  I was gonna get some new plastic ones but might as well do it right the first time.

Brad

[RGBaker]

Rodney Dickman sells the brass gear rebuild kit -- my current plan is to order the kit & try the existing gear reversal trick to buy some time with my original motors.

GB

[GSXRBOBBY]

I became a pro at rebuilding them, if you can not find a working one send me one and I will reuild it for you if needed.

[RGBaker]

Rebuilt the driver's motor yesterday -- removed, opened, cleaned, regreased, gear rotated, reintalled.  Gears were all good, but old lube had turned to plasticine ... looked to be original, as it was rivetted ... but no sign of the rubber bumper stops I've seen pictured and offered for sale at Dickman's.  Curiously no mention of them in the on-line tutorial I used as my guide for removal and rebuilding ...

Didn't fix my problem, but I've always suspected it was a relay/electrical issue on that side, as sometimes it worked fine & never did the motor 'spin' out of control like the passenger side does.  With the main relay disconnected the car can be driven with the headlights on & manually cranked up -- sometime this week I'll tackle the passenger motor and try swapping the passenger & driver relay to see if that fixes the driver's side.

Here is the tutorial I followed -- there are others out there, but this was clearly written and had pretty pictures too:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/p/a/padgett46/fielamp.htm

Cheers,
GB

[RGBaker]

Tracked down the issue with my driver's side motor -- one of the points/brushes in the internal direction switching circuits has failed.  Mostly worn or broken off, the brush fails to make reliable contact when stationary, I guess it works OK once things are spinning, or at least in practice it seems to need a little help to get started but will spin once helped.

I see that Rodney offers that portion of the assembly for sale, but I'd be happy to replace with a functional used one & just order one gear and the rubber bumpers from Dickman.  The damaged gear is working well now that I've rotated it 180 degrees and reinstalled it.  I've also got remarkably quick at removing & installing the headlight assembly ... there's a skill I hope to have little use for!

So anyone that's willing to part with the brush assembly of an 84-86 motor, drop me a message.  I suspect there is no difference between the right and left brush assembly -- a quick look would confirm. 

I realize now that the plasticine I found in the assembly is not grease gone bad as some sites suggest, but the crumbled failure of the rubber bumpers.  I'll get an order together for those and a few other key items (stud kit!) sooner or later ...

Cheers,
GB

[GSXRBOBBY]

Glad to hear you have things worked out.

[RGBaker]

Thanks.  'Largely' worked out more like -- I'd like to replace the brush/switch assembly on the driver's motor as the one I have is missing the brush ... I pm'ed one helpful reader but haven't had a response, so anyone with a motor that I can raid for a switch would be appreciated.  I believe the switch is the same on both left and right -- it is very quick to confirm as you can access the switch without opening the gear case.  If you've got a motor lying about let me know ...

GB